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France is a Feast': Photo exhibit celebrates Julia Child
YOUNTVILLE, Calif. (AP) — A new exhibit at the Napa Valley Museum Yountville features photographs of Julia Child in the years before she became one of America's most popular TV chefs. The exhibit features 60 black-and-white photos taken by Julia's husband Paul between 1948 and 1954. The couple lived in France, where Paul Child was a cultural attache to the U.S. embassy in Paris. Julia Child studied French cooking at the famed Le Cordon Bleu school and later hosted a TV show in the 1960s teaching Americans how to cook French food. The photos range from artsy shots to pictures that document their everyday life and travels.
Michelin Announces 2018 Stars for Belgium and Luxembourg

There are three new two-starred restaurants this year

Yesterday, Michelin announced its 2018 star count for Belgium and Luxembourg in a live ceremony. This year, there are three new two-star restaurants on the list, shared by Elizabeth Auerbach on Twitter: Boury in Roeselare, La Source in Neerharen, and Vrijmoed in Gent. Once again, Hof van Cleve in Kruishoutem and Hertog Jan in Zedelgem are the region’s only restaurants with three Michelin stars, the highest honor bestowed by the tire company’s dining guide.

Michelin’s guide to Belgium and Luxembourg also includes 14 new one-star restaurants, for a total of 119 single-starred restaurants. The full guide names 144 restaurants with Michelin stars, up from 132 last year. As with most all of Michelin’s guides, nearly all the restaurants featured offer European fine dining, cooked by men.

Michelin, which awards stars to restaurants, not chefs, also retired some restaurants from the list this year. Aan Tafel bij Luc Bellingsand, a fine-dining restaurant in Hasselt, Belgium, with two stars last year, was dropped from the guide, and 12 one-star options fell off the list this year.

See below for the full list of stars in Belgium and Luxembourg:

@ElizabethOnFood [Twitter]

How Massimo Bottura Convinced 60 World-Class Chefs to Launch a Soup Kitchen

Inside the chef’s new book, Bread is Gold

“A recipe, after all, is a solution to a problem.”

In the food world, Massimo Bottura, the chef and co-proprietor of Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, needs no introduction. He’s won every accolade; a reservation at his restaurant is as hard to get as a date with the Pope; and his success has brought him fame and fortune. Today, the chef known for translating big ideas into gorgeous, transcendent plates of food is also using his platform to draw attention to — and try to solve — two massive, global problems: hunger and food waste.

“Will the role of chefs define the future of food?” he asks in new book, Bread is Gold: Extraordinary Meals With Ordinary Ingredients. “Chefs are becoming ambassadors of culture, influential thinkers, and activists.” The book is full of recipes — fish soup with bread gnocchi, banana peel chutney, burnt lime stew, strawberry gazpacho, honey and toasted millet ice cream — for inventive ways to use food waste and imperfect ingredients. It’s also a printed documentation of the events that led the acclaimed chef to open high-concept soup kitchens in cities around the world.

 Amazon

Called refettorios — from the Latin word reficere, which means to rebuild or to restore — the kitchens are located in the outskirts of Milan, London, and Rio, and they transform food waste (from restaurants and markets across each city) into inspired dishes meant for those in need. “The culture of food waste is much like the culture of peripheral neighborhoods of any city,” Bottura writes, “what is unwanted gets pushed further away.” With plans to expand to New York and elsewhere in the U.S., the chef notes that the refettorios give “food a voice [and] waste a place.”

The first, Refettorio Ambrosiano, opened on May 28, 2015 in the Greco neighborhood of Milan. About 60 chefs traveled from all over the world to Milan to help Bottura get his project off the ground that first year. “Far too often at our restaurants and the food festivals we attend, we are only speaking to the converted,” Bottura writes in the book. “I asked [the chefs], ‘Wouldn’t it be refreshing to cook for people who had no idea who we were?’”

Forty-five of them — including Ana Roš (Hiša Franko), Gastón Acurio (Astrid y Gaston), Jessica Murphy (Kai Cafe & Restaurant), Alain Ducasse, Alex Atala (D.O.M.), Alice Delcourt (Erba Brusca), Michel Troisgros (Maison Troisgros), and Ferran and Albert Adrià — contributed the recipes they’d cooked up at the refettorio to Bread is Gold.

Scenes from a day with Daniel Humm, chef of Eleven Madison Park in New York City.

Daniel Humm of NYC’s Eleven Madison Park was one of the first chefs to visit Refettorio Ambrosiano in 2015. “When you look at a lot of famous traditional dishes, they have been created out of necessity, right?” he says in the book, “and mostly [out of] waste, stuff that was left over.”

Late in the season, chef Cristina Bowerman created a meal out of less-than-perfect salt cod, cherry tomatoes, carrots, couscous, polenta, and eggs. At her restaurant, Glass Hosteria in Rome, she uses the outer leaves of vegetables, the ones that are usually discarded, by drying them “into intense edible powders that are great flavor enhancers.” Bowerman came away from her experience at the refettorio with a newfound appreciation of limits. “I am starting to think that such abundance of possibilities and ingredients can actually block our creative process,” she says. “By having too much, we risk forgetting one of the most important elements: simplicity.”

René Redzepi of Copenhagen’s Noma worked with Bottura at Ferran Adrià’s elBulli in the summer of 2000. When he visited the first refettorio in 2015 — and invented a recipe for pesto using popcorn instead of the traditional (and pricier) pine nuts — he shared a memory of the first time he met Bottura: “Somebody overcooked the pasta and you freaked out, really freaked out and you threw it into the ocean... the pasta! Do you remember that? So I guess the pasta needs to be cooked right... otherwise it gets wasted!”

Alain Ducasse, chef and restaurateur based in Paris.
Viviana Varese
Viviana Varese, chef at Alice in Milan, Italy.

Printed on soft parchment, the book is divided into chapters, one for each chef, which begin with vignettes that describe their experience at the first refettorio. Emanuele Colombo captured the chefs in action; Piermichele Borraccia photographed their finished plates.

Black rice, fennel, and radicchio salad by Virgilio Martinez, chef of Central in Lima, Peru.

But why is bread gold?

Every morning over breakfast my brothers and I fought for the leftover pieces of bread from the previous night to dip in warm milk with a splash of coffee. We called this mess zuppa di latte, milk soup... Then, to my delight, I poured in the sugar, lots of it, until my mother started yelling, “Massimooooo — that’s too much sugar!” She loved to tell this story to strangers with the additional comment, “And look at him now — a famous cook!”

That taste memory led to one of Bottura’s signature dishes, Il pane è oro or Bread is Gold, a cream that tastes like that humble breakfast, topped with a caramelized bread crumb crunch, and served with a side of salted bread ice cream.

There was one hiccup in this dish’s development: The final plate was all the same color, a boring shade of ecru. “Flipping through an art magazine at home,” writes Bottura, “a gold-plated wastepaper basket by Swiss artist Sylvie Fleury caught my attention... The ordinary suddenly became the extraordinary... The message was to make visible the invisible.”

Bottura added a gilded garnish, a golden sugar shell that looked like a crumpled sheet of paper meant for the trash. “How could I have known at the time that the name ‘bread is gold’ would take on a much deeper meaning than the recipe itself,” he writes. “That a recipe would become the anthem under which we chanted the unsung values of recovering recipes and all those discarded, undervalued, and neglected ingredients.”

Chefs Ferran and Albert Adrià, chefs and restaurateurs based in Catalonia, Spain.

Bottura’s new mission is vast, and so much bigger than one restaurant or one city or one book. But he’s successfully brought together an army of artists, artisans, chefs, cooks, developers, designers, sponsors, and government officials who are making this dream a reality. Bread is Gold is just one more way the chef is using his megaphone for change. “Once you receive everything in your life,” Bottura says, “it’s time to give back.”

Images reprinted with permission from Phaidon.

Alex Guarnaschelli’s Crispy, Buttery Potato Cake Is a Star Side Dish

Inside her new cookbook, The Home Cook

“My father jokes that his mother would shop for and cook an entire meal from scratch, and, as soon as she was done, she would walk out into the living room as her guests were getting ready to leave,” writes Alex Guarnaschelli, the chef at New York City’s Butter and frequent Food Network judge, in her new cookbook, The Home Cook: Recipes to Know by Heart.

Guarnaschelli’s parents were ambitious cooks and avid cookbook collectors. She writes that her mother Maria — a respected cookbook author herself — pulled from a grand culinary library that starred Julia Child, James Beard, Diana Kennedy, and Fannie Farmer when planning feasts. “Sometimes I think I became a chef just to keep up with my family!” she jokes in the book’s foreword.

Professional chefs-in-training, at least the smart ones, save recipes they learn along the way in little notebooks and on scraps of paper. The Home Cook is Guarnaschelli’s recipe file: More than 300 of her most-referenced recipes from 25 years as a professional cook. There’s a chapter for snacks (extra-crispy cheese straws, warm bar nuts, marinated Cerignola olives); dips and pickles (pickled green beans, spicy blue cheese dip); two chapters of soup (starter soups and soup for dinner, like a New England clam chowder spiked with chorizo and dill); pastas (orecchiette with bacon, lemon, and cream); chicken (chicken Marbella with dijon instead of capers, but also chicken cutlets with prosciutto and sage); one-pot wonder main courses (roast beef with dry sherry gravy); plus a whole section on baking, including breads, cakes, pies, and frozen desserts.

Alex Guarnaschelli Clarkson Potter
Alex Guarnaschelli

Unsurprisingly, butter plays a central role in many of the recipes, such as in this star side dish, a many-layered crispy potato cake. Its four ingredients — butter, potatoes, salt, and thyme — yield a gorgeously browned cake of potatoes that would make a striking accompaniment to bone marrow (which is how Guarnaschelli serves it at her restaurant), roasted chicken, or even a Thanksgiving turkey. Best of all: It can be made ahead and reheated just before serving.

Crispy Potato Cake

Serves 4 to 6

With a few ingredients and a little elbow grease, you can make something that seems fancy and exciting without breaking the bank. This giant potato cake is wonderful when cut into small pieces and topped with anything from caramelized onions to trout roe and sour cream. Cut it into larger wedges and you have a great companion to a piece of fish or a steak. This potato cake can be made a few hours ahead and reheated in a hot oven.

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter
6 large Idaho potatoes, peeled
Kosher salt
Leaves from 6 sprigs fresh thyme

1. Clarify the butter: In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat and bring it to a gentle simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the butter to sit for a minute. The milk solids should start to sink to the bottom. Slowly pour the clear butter into a bowl, keeping as much of the white milky liquid as possible in the saucepan. Discard the milk solids, which are prone to burning. Keep the clarified butter warm near the stove.

2. Prepare the potatoes: Using a mandoline slicer or a sharp knife, cut all of the potatoes into thin (1/8-inch-thick) slices. Transfer them to a bowl and cover them with three-fourths of the clarified butter. Season with 1 tablespoon salt, sprinkle in the thyme leaves, and toss to coat the potatoes with the butter. Pour the remaining clarified butter into a 9-inch cast-iron skillet and swirl it around to coat the bottom and sides.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

4. Assemble the potato cake: Remember that the bottom layer with be the top when you unmold this cake, so this assembling should be done with extra care. Arrange a circle of potato slices around the edge of the skillet, letting them overlap halfway, one over the other. Then make a second circle, inside the first one, of overlapping potato slices. There will likely be a third, smaller circle that makes the center of the bottom layer. Continue to layer overlapping circles until the entire bottom of the skillet is filled with potato rounds in smaller and smaller circles. Sprinkle with salt, and then repeat the circles to make a total of 5 or 6 layers. Press down gently on the potatoes to make sure they are starting to stick together and form a cake.

5. Roast the potato cake: Set the skillet over high heat and cook until the liquid starts to release from the potatoes and you can see the edges browning, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the potatoes feel tender in the center when pierced with the tip of a knife, 20 to 25 minutes.

Finish the potato cake: Remove the skillet from the oven and carefully pour any excess liquid into a bowl. Invert a platter over the skillet, and carefully holding them together (use oven mitts — the skillet will be hot), turn the platter and skillet over in one deft motion. Lift off the skillet and use a large metal spatula to slide the potato cake back into the skillet so it can brown on the second side. Pour the reserved liquid back into the skillet, put it in the oven, and cook for 5 to 8 minutes. Touch the top of the potatoes: they should feel hard and crispy, and the top should be golden brown. If not, return the skillet to the oven for a few more minutes of cooking. Remove the skillet from the oven, pour off any liquid, and season the potato cake with salt. Cut it into wedges like a pie, right in the skillet, and serve piping hot.

Reprinted from The Home Cook. Copyright © 2017 by Alex Guarnaschelli. Photographs copyright © 2017 by Johnny Miller. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.

Starbucks’ Latest Specialty Drink Actually Sounds Pretty Good?

Plus, what it’s like to work at Cracker Barrel on Thanksgiving, and more food news

  • Starbucks’ latest speciality drink is — for once — foregoing the bright-colored dyes in favor of some seasonal flavor: The juniper latte blends espresso, milk, dried juniper berries, sage, and mandarin for something that tastes vaguely holiday-ish.
  • Working at Cracker Barrel on Thanksgiving Day — where the country-themed chain is a known destination for many — sounds like an absolute nightmare. “You have to mentally prepare yourself, because there's going to be a lot of screaming, a lot of yelling,” writes an anonymous employee. “There’s a lot of crying that day.”
  • Battle Chef Brigade, the video game, looks pretty amazing: The premise is essentially a “fantasy cooking show” that combines Food Network-like cook-offs with monsters, but as this review at Polygon points out, the gameplay itself is slightly lacking in excitement.
  • The new over-the-top milkshakes at TGI Friday’s look suspiciously familiar.
  • The New York Times pairs some fun science facts with every element of a traditional Thanksgiving dinner.
  • Meanwhile, according to one report, Americans will collectively spend more than $81 million on pie to celebrate the holiday.
  • Do take a moment to check out Squeakeasies, an art project by Hunter Fine that uses adorable sculpted rats to poke fun at gentrifying New York City bars.
La Guía Michelin desvela su reparto de estrellas ante 500 invitados en Tenerife
La Guía Michelin España y Portugal 2018 que, según sus responsables, es "excepcional" para nuestro país, se presenta mañana en una gala en Tenerife a la que asistirán 500 invitados, muchos de ellos cocineros de todas las categorías que contempla la publicación.
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